The Julian Alps and Tarvisio
Vertical limestone, green lakes and the point where three countries meet.
The Julian Alps are limestone mountains, steep and pale, and the Italian part is concentrated in the north-eastern corner around Tarvisio. Jof di Montasio reaches 2,754 metres and Mangart 2,677: they are visible from far off and they resemble nothing else in the region.
At their feet lie the Fusine lakes, two sheets of green water inside a fir forest, with a walk round that is flat and takes less than an hour. The water stays icy all year, which does not stop somebody trying it in August.
Tarvisio and the three borders
Tarvisio sits where Italy, Austria and Slovenia meet, and you can tell: the Saturday market speaks three and a half languages. From here the Alpe Adria cycle route runs down to Grado along the old railway, with gentle gradients and lit tunnels. Monte Lussari, above the town, is reached by cable car and has a sanctuary and five houses at the top.
The campsites here are few and small, and nearly all open in winter too because this is skiing country. In summer they are a base for walking, and the temperature really does drop at night: a warm sleeping bag is not excessive.